JJ23 MATERIAL RESEARCH
SI JJ23 PVC-Coated Deck Pants (1983) (Art.-Nr. 06634020). Made in Italy. Designed by Massimo Osti.
Trousers made of cotton canvas with a single-sided PVC coating, developed in 1983 in collaboration with ITS Artea (Lombardy) — an early industrial partner within Osti’s technical network. The base fabric in plain weave is coated with a dense polyvinyl-chloride film, creating a closed, semi-gloss surface. Highly water-repellent, low in breathability. Fabric weight over 400 g/m² with high stiffness and limited tear resistance. Produced for one season only, succeeded by Raso Gommato from 1984 onwards.
The material appeared in several colour tones — grey, yellow, cherry red, rust-brown red, ochre, off-white, black and dark olive green — depending on pigmentation, coating batch and ageing of the PVC layer. Slight shifts in hue and sheen are typical of these early experimental laminations.
The coating marks the transition from traditional rubberised, waxed or leather-bonded cottons of the 1940s–50s towards industrial synthetic laminates. Functionally and conceptually derived from maritime wet-weather gear such as U.S. Navy and German Navy Deck Trousers, Osti translated the protective principle into a modular design object made from PVC-coated textile.
High-rise cut with tapered leg, double pleats and angled fly closed by metal eyelet buttons. Four side-tab adjusters (two front, two back) allow precise waist regulation. Flat, double-stitched waistband. Slanted front pockets, rear patch pockets with flaps. Closure with oversized buttons in vulcanised natural rubber — a functional signature of early Stone Island. The rubber button is corrosion-free, noise-dampening and soft to the touch.
Black rubber buttons run through the entire JJ23 series — trousers, jackets and sweatshirts — forming one of the brand’s first recurring functional details. Adjustable hem tab with two-button system inspired by naval deck trousers; the coated outer fabric extends approx. 15 cm inside to stabilise the hem and prevent moisture wicking. Badge positioned centrally at the back waistband, fixed with two flat metal buttons. Partly raw finishing with exposed seams and coarse double-stitching — Osti’s idea of merging industrial precision with handcrafted immediacy.
The JJ23 series comprised around 15 to 20 models for A/W 1983 — jackets, sweatshirts, trousers and the iconic Zeltbahn Cape — all made from the same PVC-coated fabric. One jacket from the series later served as a conceptual starting point for the Stone Island × Dior collaboration 2024 – from co-designed capsule by Dior’s Creative Director kimjonesstudio with his design team leeyoungkyoon lancelin_k misslucybeeden and Stone Island (Design Director Silvio Rivetti).
Equipped with the early “Isola di Pietra” label, a hallmark of Stone Island’s founding phase. Campaign photographed by Studio Poli (Bologna), documenting surface and construction rather than styling. JJ23 defines Osti’s experimental material period; original pieces are among the rarest collector garments from the brand’s early era.
One piece was featured again in 2024 within Stone Island’s “A Research Project in 100 Questions”, worn by Liam Gallagher.
A clear example of Osti’s early synthesis of industrial function, material innovation and military systematics — and of his joy in experimentation. Magic.
